“Gulee Jruek Drien”: Tradition, Culinary Identity, and Cultural Heritage in West Aceh

Abstract

This study examines gulee jruek drien, a culinary tradition of the communities along the western coast of Aceh—particularly in West Aceh—as a form of living local knowledge passed down from one generation to the next. Traditionally, traditional foods have often been understood merely as culinary products or expressions of a region’s gastronomic identity. In reality, behind every dish lies a body of knowledge regarding ingredient selection, processing, fermentation, cooking techniques, spice usage, flavor balancing, and social norms regarding when and to whom the food is served. Gulee jruek drien is an interesting subject of study because its main characteristic lies in the use of fermented durian, which produces a distinctive sour flavor. This study employs a qualitative approach. Data was collected through observations of the preparation and cooking process of gulee jruek drien, in-depth interviews with culinary practitioners, women who are masters of traditional cooking, family members, and the younger generation, as well as through documentation. The analysis focused on three main aspects: the manifestation of traditions and local foods in the cooking process; the sociocultural significance of the food; and the mechanisms of intergenerational knowledge transmission. The research shows that local cuisine is not limited to traditional foods but serves as a space for the reproduction of cultural identity within the local culinary traditions of West Aceh society. The preservation of gulee jruek drien is not merely about maintaining a recipe but is part of the protection of local culinary cultural practices.